Glacier Trekking: Essential Gear
Glacier trekking is not a technical mountaineering activity in the same sense as crevasse rescue or ice climbing, but it is serious backcountry travel that requires specific equipment. The consequences of being under-equipped on glacier ice — whether from a slip, a weather change, or a broken-through snow bridge — are severe. The following list covers every item that a guided or self-guided glacier trekker should carry. Some of it will be provided by reputable guiding operators; all of it should be understood before you leave the trailhead.
Crampons
Crampons are the non-negotiable foundation of glacier travel. On firm or blue ice, without crampons, every step is a gamble. The two designs most appropriate for glacier trekking are C1 flexible crampons (for flexible-soled hiking boots) and C2 semi-rigid crampons (for semi-stiff boots and light mountaineering footwear).
The Petzl Vasak is a widely used ten-point C2 design in a bail-and-strap binding compatible with most semi-rigid mountain boots; it is reliable, light at around 750 g, and straightforward to fit correctly. The Grivel G12 is a twelve-point design in both strap and step-in versions that offers more front-point security for steeper terrain. For pure glacier walking without technical climbing, a ten-point C1 or C2 crampon is sufficient; for any steeper work or ice climbing at the end of the day, twelve points and a step-in binding are preferable.
Fit crampons at home, in the boots you will wear on the glacier, well before the trip. Anti-balling plates — rubber platforms that prevent snow from packing between the points — are essential in wet conditions; most modern crampons include them.
Ice axe
The general mountaineering ice axe — typically 55 to 75 cm depending on height — serves two purposes on glacier terrain: a walking aid on moderate slopes, and a self- arrest tool if you slip. Carry it in the hand-down position (pick forward, shaft pointing back along the forearm) at all times on snow, not clipped to a pack.
The self-arrest grip — roll face-down onto the pick immediately on slipping, pressing it into the snow while flaring the toes of your crampons — must be practiced on a safe practice slope before you need it on real terrain. An ice axe you have never practiced with provides limited protection.
For most glacier trekking, a standard general-mountaineering axe (Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Summit, or similar) is appropriate. Technical axes with steep curves are designed for ice climbing, not for self-arrest, and should not be substituted for a straight general-mountaineering axe on trekking terrain.
Harness and abseil device
Every member of a roped glacier party wears a sit harness. A standard rock-climbing harness (Black Diamond Momentum, Petzl Corax, or equivalent) is fully appropriate; technical mountaineering harnesses with detachable leg loops are more comfortable in cold conditions. The harness is the attachment point for the rope, the anchor system in a crevasse rescue, and the descender if you need to rappel into or out of a feature.
Carry a locking carabiner of at least 20 kN gate-closed strength and an abseil device (ATC, Reverso, or figure-eight). The guide on a commercial trip will carry rescue hardware; on a self-guided trip, each team member should carry their own basic anchor kit.
Helmet
Rock fall from glacier margins, ice fall from seracs above the route, and the consequences of a crampon trip on firm ice all justify a helmet. A standard climbing helmet (Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Boreo, or equivalent) is the minimum. Cold- weather fit — wearing a beanie inside the helmet — should be tested before departure.
Rope
A glacier rope team requires approximately 30 metres per team member for a two- or three-person group: enough rope to space the team 8 to 15 metres apart and retain sufficient tail at each end for anchor building. A 9 mm half rope or a 8 to 9 mm single rope in 50-60 m lengths covers a three-person team. Carry the rope coiled with each team member holding coils in hand on crevasse terrain to manage the active length between them.
Prusik loops
Each team member carries at least two prussik loops of 5 or 6 mm accessory cord, approximately 60 cm when tied in a closed loop. These are used for crevasse rescue self-ascent, anchoring the loaded rope while building a pulley system, and emergency descent backups. Colour-code them if you carry different sizes.
Eye protection
Snow and glacier ice reflect up to 80% of incident UV radiation. Without eye protection, a full day on glacier terrain causes photokeratitis — snow blindness — a painful temporary loss of vision that incapacitates for 24 to 48 hours. You need either glacier glasses (wraparound frames with side shields and Category 4 lenses, which transmit less than 8% of visible light) or mountaineering goggles with equivalent UV blocking. Standard sports sunglasses without side shields are insufficient because light enters from the sides and reflects off the snow below the lenses. Category 4 is not optional in summer at altitude; it is the standard minimum for extended glacier time.
Layered clothing and hardshell
The layering principle — moisture-wicking base, insulating mid, waterproof shell — is mandatory rather than optional on glaciers, where weather can change within hours and wind chill on bare ice is severe. The hardshell must be waterproof, not merely water-resistant; glaciers generate meltwater mist and wet calving spray that saturate a softshell in minutes. A minimum of 20,000 mm hydrostatic head rating for the jacket and 15,000 mm for the trousers.
The one material to avoid in any layer is untreated cotton, which absorbs moisture, loses all insulating value when wet, and is slow to dry. Merino wool base layers, synthetic or down mid layers, and hardshell outer layers are the standard.
Gaiters
Gaiters keep snow and ice chunks out of the gap between boot and trouser, which matters both for warmth and for preventing snow from packing around crampon bindings. Knee-height gaiters (Outdoor Research Crocodile, Hillsound, or similar) are appropriate for glacier trekking.
Headlamp and bivy bag
Early-morning alpine starts, unexpected weather delays, or a crevasse rescue that takes longer than expected can put a glacier team in darkness. A headlamp with a spare set of batteries is the standard minimum. For teams venturing onto serious glaciated terrain away from guided areas, a bivy bag per person — a lightweight emergency sleeping bag or bag-and-mat combination — can mean the difference between a survivable unplanned night out and a fatal one.
Find glacier trekking destinations on the map
Every glacier with accessible trekking routes is marked on the interactive map. Use it to locate the approaches, identify the glacier type, and cross- reference with local guiding operators before planning your trip.